Thursday, December 16, 2010

Madison river fishing returns from Whirling Disease

Montana’s Madison River has long been one of the most famous and revered rivers in the world. The river often is listed as the number one trout river in North American and appears in books with titles like “50 places to fish before you die”. In the mid 90s everything changed for the river when a microscopic invader had a devastating impact on the river. Whirling disease is a small microbe that affects rainbow trout. The parasite causes deformation in the spinal cord of young trout that causes them to swim in circles, usually resulting in death. In some reaches of the river, mortality of rainbow trout reached levels over 90%. News of the outbreak quickly spread throughout the angling community and the number of fisherman visiting the river drastically decreased. The Madison river became the poster child for whirling disease and the microbe quickly hitchhiked to other rivers around the West producing similar results. Some states, like Colorado, tackled the problem by stocking rainbow trout fingerlings. In Montana, where there all trout in rivers are wild and there is not a hatchery program, fisheries biologists decided to let nature run its course. The gamble paid off, and the trout that did survive the initial massive die offs began showing some resistance to the disease.

Madison River fly fishing has returned to greatness, and although whirling disease is still present in the river, rainbow trout levels have rebounded to pre whirling disease levels. The Madison is once again one of the favorites of Montana’s fly fishing guides and outfitters. Many guides also feel that the brown trout fishing in the river is better than it has ever been with numerous fish over 20” frequently being caught. Each of the last few years a few lucky fisherman have managed to hook and land monster browns the taped at over 30” and weighed over 10lbs.
Fly fishing in Montana should be on the short list for any angler that enjoys chasing trout in beautiful mountain rivers. Montana is home to an astounding number of high quality blue ribbon rivers, lakes and spring creeks. It’s northern latitude and proximity to numerous mountain ranges that produce and ample source of cool snow melt that help to make the state a trout factory. Montana’s trout streams are filled exclusively with wild fish. Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks has a very limited hatchery program and stocking is restricted to high mountain lakes and reservoirs where trout reproduction is limited. Montana fly fishing guides are some of the best in the planet. Hot beds for fly fishing like Bozeman, Missoula, Ennis, West Yellowstone and Dillon attract some of the worlds best professional guides and outfitters. The combination of productive rivers, great scenery, and high quality outfitters make Montana a prime destination for anglers from around the world. With the vast number of high quality trout rivers, outfitters, fly shops and lodges in Montana planning a fishing vacation to Montana can be overwhelming. Here are five tips to help you plan the perfect Big Sky state fishing trip.

Tip 1: Choose your lodging accommodations carefully

Your choice of lodging will be a big factor in your enjoyment of your fishing vacation. Lodging can be broken down into Montana fishing lodges, hotels, vacation rentals and outfitted camping trips. Fishing lodges are the most expensive option, but also provide a lot of amenities. Lodges are often located in beautiful rural settings and frequently have direct access to rivers. Montana fishing lodges usually include all meals (generally very high quality dining!). Since all of the guests are also fly fishing lodges provide for a social atmosphere with like-minded guests. Hotels are a great option to save some money and explore Montana on your own. Many Montana towns like Bozeman and Missoula have a vibrant night life that many guests enjoy by staying at an in-town hotel. Vacation rentals are a great option for families and larger groups and allow your crew to cook your own meals. Vacation houses and cabins are often located in beautiful settings and can offer a lot of room. If you have four our more people in your group they can also be cheaper than hotels. Many outfitters in Montana also offer overnight camping trips either as float trips on rivers or as wilderness horse pack trips into the mountains. Outfitted camping trips are surprisingly “deluxe” and guests enjoy great food while still “roughing” it.

Tip 2: Decide which rivers or regions you would like to target


Do you have a specific target river in mind or do you want to sample a lot of different fishing options. Rivers like the Bighorn are world famous, but do not have many other high quality trout fisheries nearby so if you plan a vacation there you will be fishing the same river each day. Other regions like Dillon, Bozeman and Missoula have numerous rivers in their prospective regions allowing angler to sample different rivers each day. If variety is important, make sure to ask outfitters or lodges what the different fishing options are in the region.

Tip 3: Decide what type of fishing is most important
There are a variety of different techniques used in the sport of fly fishing including nymph fishing, streamer fishing and dry fly fishing and many anglers prefer one over another. Each river also has its own character, some stretches have huge trout but lower numbers and others provide fast action with small fish. Fishing conditions also change during the course of the year and different seasons showcase different styles of fishing. Beginning anglers generally are most interested in having some action and experiencing the sport. The perfect trip for an entry level angler will most likely center around nymph fishing on rivers with a high fish count that produce a lot of action. Seasoned fly fisherman may prefer to target dry fly fishing. As an outfitter, I always try to determine what a client is looking for. Do they want to target big trout, dry fly fishing, lots of action, etc. Make sure you discuss your ideal style of fishing and what is important to you when you talk to a lodge or outfitter.

Tip 4: Consider non-fishing activities


What do you plan on doing during your down time on your Montana fishing trip? Will you fish every day of your trip or do you want to take off a few days to sight see? Do you enjoy larger college towns or want to be as remote as possible? Are there any members of your group (like a spouse) that won’t be fishing? There is such a large quantity of great fishing in Montana that you should be able to target exactly the kind of trip that you are looking for. Often non-fishing activities are an important part of the equation. Some areas, like Ennis are great fishing towns, but do not offer as many non-fishing activities as a place like Big Sky or Bozeman. This is an especially important consideration if you have a non-fishing spouse or if your group takes some time off from fishing.

Tip 5: Book as early as possible

Prime dates and the most experienced and knowledgeable guides begin booking as early as a year in advance. While we still book trips as late as a week out even during the summer, the longer lead time we have the more flexibility there is in designing a trip and the better the odds that we can match clients up with the perfect guide.

Big Sky Fly Fishing

Big Sky, Montana is home to the largest skiing area in the United States. The outstanding winter sports combined with numerous summer activities like fishing, horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking and rafting have made Big Sky a popular year round destination for vacationers craving outdoor recreation. Big Sky fly fishing also happens to be some of the best in North America.

Gallatin River


If you close your eyes and envision a perfect trout river, the Gallatin River would surely remind you of the river in your dreams. This gorgeous fishery begins in Yellowstone National Park a short jaunt from Big Sky. The scenery along the Gallatin was made famous by Robert Redford’s classic “A River Runs Through It” where all of the fishing scenes were filmed. After tumbling out of the park it flows past Big Sky junction and enters the Gallatin Canyon of the next 30 miles. Upon leaving the canyon the Gallatin becomes a beautiful meadow river lined with cottonwoods on its journey to form the Missouri near Three Forks. Gallatin River fly fishing is great throughout its course. The highest trout numbers occur below the Big Sky junction after numerous underground springs improve the productivity of the river. The canyon boasts thousands of trout per mile and fishing can often be fast and furious. Rainbow trout in the 10-17” range dominate the fishery here, but the occasional brown trout provides some diversity. The trout in the canyon are not terribly picky and a well presented attractor dry fly or small bead head nymph is all that is needed to provide steady action. Once the Gallatin leaves the canyon trout numbers begin to drop but trout size increases. The Lower Gallatin produces fish in the 20-28” range each year and is a favorite destination in the fall for those searching for trophy fish.

Madison River

The Madison River is frequently rated as North America’s number one trout stream. This legendary fishery originates in Yellowstone National Park and flows through one of Montana’s most picturesque valleys on its journey to form the Missouri river. The Madison river has it all: great hatches, spectacular scenery, huge trout and great water. A day float fishing the Madison from a drift boat is prerequisite for any Montana fishing trip. The upper portion of the River is designated for wade fishing only and is an ideal location to target large, strong and healthy browns and rainbows in swift rocky pocket water. The large rocks and swift current are not for the faint of heart, but those that are willing to do some aggressive wading are always rewarded. Throughout most of the Upper Madison Valley, the river flows through what is fondly referred to as the 50 mile riffle. This swift, shallow stretch of water offers ideal trout habitat from bank to bank. This amazingly productive stretch holds lots of browns and rainbows of all year classes with fish up to 30” caught each season. Below Ennis Lake, the river changes character dramatically as it enters the tumultuous Bear Trap Canyon. Big Sky Angler guides Brian and Miles McGeehan are two of a very small handful of guides qualified to offer fishing trips through the class V whitewater run. Bear Trap is safely the premier one day float fishing trip in North America. After exiting Bear Trap canyon, the Lower Madison slows in gradient as its currents wash over large weed beds filled with sculpins, mayflies and crayfish. Some of the largest trout in the Madison reside in its lower waters and it is a prime destination in the spring and fall when water temperatures are ideal for trout fishing.

Yellowstone River Fishing


The Yellowstone is the longest undammed river in the lower 48. After carving its way throughout the length of Yellowstone National Park, it travels through Paradise Valley and eventually across the state of Montana to join the Missouri River in North Dakota. This large river is ideal for float fishing and offers some of the best dry fly fishing in Montana. Most Big Sky Angler trips take place on the 100 miles of water from Gardiner at the park boundary to just beyond Big Timber. Impressive hatches of caddis flies, stoneflies and mayflies bring fish to the surface from April through July and again in the fall. In the late summer months, the Yellowstone is home to some of the best terrestrial fishing in Montana, including some awesome grasshopper fishing. Numerous alfalfa fields near the river fill up with the large insects in late July through September and are frequently blown into the river on breezy afternoons. Large trout become reckless when chasing these large tasty morsels and a day of “hopper” fishing ranks high on the list of many international anglers.

Small stream fishing


Big Sky is surrounded by small mountain streams that are filled with eager trout ready to pounce on a well presented dry fly. Speciman creek, Fan creek, Portal Creek, Moose Creek, Storm Castle Creek, Swan Creek, Hell Roaring Creek and the Taylor Fork all offer secluded fly fishing to small trout. A short three or four weight rod and a box of attractor dry flies is all that is needed to have an action packed day on these small creeks.

Montana's "best" fly fishing

As an outfitter and owner of Montana Angler Fly Fishing I am frequently asked “when is the best time to fish?” or “what is the best river for Montana fly fishing?” My answer is always “it depends”. Montana has a massive variety of high quality trout fishing with dozens of famous blue ribbon trout fisheries and millions of lesser known streams, lakes and spring creeks all full of willing trout. The truth is that trout eat every day, even in the winter which means that they can be caught year round. The fact that different anglers are looking for different experiences with their Montana fly fishing trip makes it impossible to deliver a simple answer to broad questions about when or where the best fishing is. The following tips can help to provide some specific tips for Montana’s best fly fishing.

When is the best time to catch large trout?

Large trout can be caught on any day of the year, but there are two times of the year that yield a higher frequency of monsters. Although some anglers argue that early spring is a good time to catch trophy trout, I would put my money on post runoff and October. Run off usually ends in mid June-mid July depending on the river. Usually when the rivers just clear and are beginning to drop the big fish are dumb and hungry. As water drops and the season progresses they tend to get a bit smarter and harder to catch. October is also a great time of year to target big brown trout. Fishing pressure has dropped off and the fish are less wary. Large browns spawn in November and become more aggressive during the month of October. Some large browns also run out of large lakes into rivers like the Missouri and Madison making them more accessible to fly fisherman.

When is the best time to dry fly fish?

Probably mid summer. Early in the summer fishing is great but the water is still high and dry fly fishing is more variable. Once rivers drop dry fly fishing improves greatly. Dry fly fishing can also be good in the spring and fall, but it is often during windows that coincide baetis hatches. In the summer fish turn onto terrestrials in midsummer and are more willing to hit attractors or ant and hopper patterns during the day. Spring creeks are the exception to the rule since they produced great dry fly fishing during runoff (they aren’t affected by runoff).

What are the best regions for a large variety of rivers, lakes and creeks?

Bozeman, Ennis, Livingston, Dillon and Missoula offer the greatest variety on fly fishing trips. At each location it is possible to fish a different river each day if so desired. Many anglers enjoy a variety of river sizes and type while on a fishing vacation.

Which rivers are the best if I’m fishing on my own?

Many of Montana’s most famous fisheries can be difficult to fish successfully on a DIY trip. Rivers like the Madison, Yellowstone and Missouri are so large that you either need a drift boat or specific knowledge of where you can wade fish. Avoid the larger rivers if you are fishing on your own without a boat. Smaller waters like the Ruby, Gallatin, Upper Blackfoot, Boulder and Rock Creek are smaller and easier to read. Visiting anglers generally have a better experience on these smaller rivers. There are also ample small stream fisheries that are free of crowds and very productive. Call a local fly shop in the region that you are targeting and ask for advice for local small streams that you can easily wade fish without much knowledge of the fishery.

Which rivers have the best trout numbers?

The Bighorn, Missouri and Beaverhead have the highest trout concentrations. All three rivers are tail waters (below dams) and the productive fishing. These tail waters also produce the most fishing pressure so expect to see a lot of other fisherman (by Montana standards). Actual catch rates on rivers such as the Yellowstone and Madison often equal those on the tail waters because the fish receive less pressure and are not as wary.

A good idea before you plan a Montana fishing vacation is to develop a list of things that are most important to you. Think about factors like trout size, catch rates, style of fishing, lodging options, weather, etc. If you are planning a guided trip use this priority list to help your chosen outfitter help you design the perfect trip.